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I started by blocksanding the epoxy primer with 180 grit paper on Dura-Blocks. I took about 11 1/2 hours to do the entire car. I went through a lot of sandpaper because the DP50LF epoxy primer really clogged the paper.

I then masked the car (another 3+ hours). I then coated the body with 3 good coats (3 quarts) of Evercoat SlickSand. I had to buy a new primer gun with a 2.2mm tip just to spray the stuff. once mixed the Slicksand becomes very warm and must be applied immediately to prevent it from hardening in the gun. Slicksand sprays very hard becasue it comes out very thick and it can't be thinned. It took me 2 hours just to apply it.

Once it cured for a few hours I came back and applied a guide coat (sems guide coat) over the body. Some people just use cheap hardware store spray paint for their guide coat, but the correct guide coat costs under $5 and it doesn't clog your sandpaper. So why bother.

The purpose of the guide coat is to aid in the block sanding process. The idea is that you try to sand down enough to removed the guide coat, but not so far as to reveal metal or body filler. If metal or body filler appears and you still have some guide coat showing, then you will need another coat of Slicksand and you have to reblock.

In the above series of pictures you can see the body going through the block sanding process. I started with the roof and worked my way down to the rear quarter panels. I then moved to the doors and then the bonnet. You can see that I used masking tape to maask off the body lines on the doors and bonnet. This is to prevent undercutting the previously sanded body lines.

Once the blocking was done I checked my work by spraying the entire body down with DX330 Wax & Grease Remover in a paint gone. This shows you what the car looks like if it was sprayed with clear. Wiping Wax & Grease Remover on by hand leaves streaks, so you should use a gun. The above series of pictures shows what the body looks like with the Wax & Grease Remover applied. Appearently I did good work so I did not need to reblock the car a third time.

After another 3+ hours of masking I sealed the body with DP50LF Epoxy primer mixed as a sealer by adding DX870 Reducer. The doors and rear hatch were removed and primed seperately since I did not want any masking lines inside the jambs. With that done it is time to put the body on the rotisserie and paint the underside.

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